Fussells Radio Control F1 car

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ESPImperium
ESPImperium
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Joined: 06 Apr 2008, 00:08
Location: Glasgow, Scotland

Re: Fussells Radio Control F1 car

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jordangp wrote:
Monster_Energy_F1 wrote:Do you think you could rapid prototype parts for other people within F1T?
:lol: I wouldn't count on it. It can be pretty pricey.
Red Bull take a Rapid Prototyping machine to every GP & Test in europe and it costs the team a reported €10m a season to do so.

The quick fix diffuser & floor that McLaren had for the first few GPs last year cost the team double what it would a normal carbon one, and they had 4 made in just 3 days. A normal carbon one would take at that stage of a season about 3 or 4 days.

Quality tech, however it is pricey, and sometimes pieces are fragile if transporting over a distance improperly.

The one good thing about RP is that for a team that runs a wind tunnel more or less all the time they can get parts on within hours. More and more teams are using this tech for their wind tunnels as they don't have to wait for carbon pieces to be made or wait overnight for a milling machine to manufacture a metallic piece.

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Monster_Energy_F1
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Joined: 31 Jan 2012, 22:41
Location: Greenford, London

Re: Fussells Radio Control F1 car

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How much? (Roughly)

ESPImperium
ESPImperium
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Joined: 06 Apr 2008, 00:08
Location: Glasgow, Scotland

Re: Fussells Radio Control F1 car

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Monster_Energy_F1 wrote:How much? (Roughly)
McLaren didn't put a cost on it, but a carbon floor is roughly €50,000 for the top teams ones for the current cars floor. However the lower teams ones can cost €30,000.

However as soon as the final flag is waved on any season those parts usually loose around 90% of their value immediately, which is what some say is a waste.

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Monster_Energy_F1
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Joined: 31 Jan 2012, 22:41
Location: Greenford, London

Re: Fussells Radio Control F1 car

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How much do you think it was to do the Front Wing on this model?

marcush.
marcush.
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Joined: 09 Mar 2004, 16:55

Re: Fussells Radio Control F1 car

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you may look into this :
http://www.windform.it which is selective laser sintering SLS
this can be done in abs and ,PA type plastics but also in metal ...or the plastic parts can be metalized (PVD)
but there is also other types of rp:
you could say rapid tooling would also qualify for RP as you can get cast products quite quickly ,or you get a mold for laminating parts.

then there is 3d printing which is similar to your normal printer with powder and a binding material shot through a jet
but working in layers
or like a printer using UV light to solidify plastic -which is another method called objet polyjet or something

Fused Deposition Modeling is working like the 3d printing but not into a box filled with powder by a single jet melting the base material and building up the part.

and of course stereolithography

in Automotive industry the usual thing is sls and a small part is actually not very costly .

Teams are at ease producing the STL files that are needed for running the machine as it can be derived either from scans of real world parts or created from CAD files .
Of course you need a big machine to build big parts..and those are rare .
But for small parts you a price of around 300 to 1000€ would not be what you would expect .Companies usually load the RP machine to do a lot of parts in paralellel and so you start making profit as the machine does not really care if it does 1 or 10 parts in one go

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fussell
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Joined: 06 Feb 2012, 21:28

Re: Fussells Radio Control F1 car

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Hi All,

Yes, Monster_Energy_F1 I can get components made for others on here, and yes it is pricey. That's why I have only used it on the front wing, which cost £84 (excluding VAT). All I need is the STL CAD file of the part. I have a friend working in a consultancy that has access to one. If your interest pm me.

The front wing on car is produced using a process called Stereolithography (SLA). The exact resin material for this part is DS Accura Xtreme Plastic (Grey) resin @ 0.15 layer thickness. Unlike an SLS material the surface definition is better I think.

Hope to have an update on my car this weekend, hopefully the finished top layer of paint!

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Monster_Energy_F1
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Joined: 31 Jan 2012, 22:41
Location: Greenford, London

Re: Fussells Radio Control F1 car

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Thanks Fussel.

I was only wondering, but I look forward to seeing your updates. :D

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fussell
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Joined: 06 Feb 2012, 21:28

Re: Fussells Radio Control F1 car

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Hi Guys
I aimed to get all the white parts painted on the weekend with the final white glossy top coat. Unfortunately this didn't go to plan. I rubbed down all the parts ready to paint. I sprayed the top and lower parts of the monocoque and nose cone, but as the paint was drying it got more speckley. Any ideas on why this happened?

I stopped before painting the other parts. I'm gonna get and a new can of paint, rub the parts back to the primer and repaint. On a positive note, I have designed some front uprights, which enable the steering arm/track rod to be anchored to the upright higher up. Therefore hiding it better. I hope to get them made soon.

Image
Image
Image

rjsa
rjsa
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Joined: 02 Mar 2007, 03:01

Re: Fussells Radio Control F1 car

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I doubt I've knowledge to teach you any thing at all but here it goes:

If you are using spray try to get an airbrush.
My experience with airbrushes is that to try covering the surface in a single coat will always end in tears. Use the paint well thinned, apply light coats and let dry. Wet sand between coats.

In my plastic scale model years we where able to get pretty nice results with enamels this way. Just a fine polish in the end, no gloss coating. Also very good results with Tamiya glossy acrylics. I never used car paint on small models, but always wanted to try.

There is a lot of information about that on youtube...

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elFranZ
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Joined: 27 Mar 2012, 14:00

Re: Fussells Radio Control F1 car

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Hey Fussell, great job. I'm the lucky owner of a 3racing FGX, nothing compared to this :)

Did you try Tamiya spray paints? I never had problems with them, getting an uniform covering in a couple coats, no sanding required.
Then, may I ask you about motoring the thing? I don't go racing (yet), so installed a 9T brushless coupled with a 19 teeth pinion. Yes, too much for a 1:10 F1, but I wanted "the real thing", if you understand :d Playing down with engine programmer helped a bit, but I'm planning to change it soon, still can't go at full throttle... Any suggestion?

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fussell
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Joined: 06 Feb 2012, 21:28

Re: Fussells Radio Control F1 car

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Hi elFranZ,

I've had a look at a 3racing FGX - looks awesome. I don't really have any suggestions sorry, I know I'm gonna have the same problem with my car, as I'm running a 9T motor too. I hoping my 2008 spec diffuser will help.

An update for the model, I rubbed back the rubbish paint job, bought a new aerosol, and all the parts are painted. Apart from the sidepod pylons, which need a bit of finishing. I did think about using a airbrush rjsa, but I'm not very good with it and prefer just to use it on smaller areas. Overal though I'm quite happy with the finish, better lighting will show off the shiny surface.

Image

The next stage is to paint all the 'carbon fibre' surfaces of the car black, which will be wrapped in decal paper, with a carbon fibre print. I've started painting a few areas, as one can see in the image.

The closer I get to finishing the model the more I feel that I don't want to put a motor in it and race it around! :?

Smokes
Smokes
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Joined: 30 Mar 2010, 17:47

Re: Fussells Radio Control F1 car

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Have a look on here for painting and advice

http://www.oople.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=9

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flynfrog
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Joined: 23 Mar 2006, 22:31

Re: Fussells Radio Control F1 car

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fussell wrote:Hi Guys
I aimed to get all the white parts painted on the weekend with the final white glossy top coat. Unfortunately this didn't go to plan. I rubbed down all the parts ready to paint. I sprayed the top and lower parts of the monocoque and nose cone, but as the paint was drying it got more speckley. Any ideas on why this happened?

I stopped before painting the other parts. I'm gonna get and a new can of paint, rub the parts back to the primer and repaint. On a positive note, I have designed some front uprights, which enable the steering arm/track rod to be anchored to the upright higher up. Therefore hiding it better. I hope to get them made soon.

Image
Image
Image

what kind of paint were you using and what temperature was it?


if you have an air compressor I would recommend getting something like this and spraying automotive paints through it.

http://www.google.com/products/catalog? ... IUBEPMCMAA

If you must use rattle car put the cans in hot water for 15 min before you spray. This will up the pressure and thin the paint to give you a better atomization.

Prep is the key though use a filler primer and put it on heavy. Give it plenty of time to dry then mist it with a differnt color.
This will serve as a guide coat. Now wet sand with 240. This will show you where you have to add some glazing putty or filler.
https://www.google.com/search?aq=f&suge ... 20&bih=979

once you have all of the major areas filled and sanded hit it with another coat of primer and a guide coat as before. now wet sand with 400-600 grit. You should and until you cant see any dark lines in the guide coat. These are sanding scratches from earlier grits.

once you have a good flat surface you can apply your base coat. Depending on what paint system you are using this may also be your final coat. It is important to spray with a wet edge you don't want the paint to dry in the air. This is controlled by you distance and speed. Never start spraying on the part always start off and come into the part. Spray all of your hard to reach areas and sharp edges first. Spray in even strokes with a 50% overlap.

One coat may be enough if not give a good dry time then hit it again. If doing metallic I like to give a mist coat from about 3X the distance I was spraying into wet paint to get rid of any stripes in the metallic.

Let it dry at room temp. You don't want to get it to hot or it will solvent pop. The outer coat of paint will cure before the reducers have a chance to out gas. Its better to be too cold than to hot.

For most people this is good.

If you have a real sickness you can wet sand and buff.

And as always follow all laws, wear safety equipment, eat your vegetables.

ESPImperium
ESPImperium
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Joined: 06 Apr 2008, 00:08
Location: Glasgow, Scotland

Re: Fussells Radio Control F1 car

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Id love to see what someone could come up with in a F1 designed car that had this petrol engine;

http://www.modelzone.co.uk/radio-contro ... t9606.html

Or take a Nitro RC car and then take the internals out of it, and place them into a F1 designed body with a DRS flap to simulate realness. Im thinlking about making a more or less exact 1:8 replica or 1:6 replica that would be arround 80 kilos and have everything more or less in the same areas as a propper F1 car.

It would be fun to see what could be done.

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flynfrog
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Joined: 23 Mar 2006, 22:31

Re: Fussells Radio Control F1 car

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ESPImperium wrote:Id love to see what someone could come up with in a F1 designed car that had this petrol engine;

http://www.modelzone.co.uk/radio-contro ... t9606.html

Or take a Nitro RC car and then take the internals out of it, and place them into a F1 designed body with a DRS flap to simulate realness. Im thinlking about making a more or less exact 1:8 replica or 1:6 replica that would be arround 80 kilos and have everything more or less in the same areas as a propper F1 car.

It would be fun to see what could be done.
I dont see whats to great about that motor? There are companies that make 1/4 scale F1 rc cars with disk brakes ect.