Well, people has been stroking engines since dragsters appeared, so there is plenty of info about it. Unlike boring the cylinders, you get a significative increase in displacement. There are plenty of kits used mainly when rebuilding an engine.
Where I live it's very popular to take a 350 cu. in. Chevy engine and use a 400 cu. in. crankshaft: you get a 383 cu. in. displacement. That is a huge increase in displacement, compared with re-boring the engine, at a marginal price.
If you use stock rods, the piston pin must be raised (i.e., the compression height reduced) by the same amount as half the increase in stroke.
I've also seen many people using 6 inch rods instead of the 5.7 original Chevy ones.
The rods sit on the crank pins: it is clear that the new crank pins have to match the rods that you use. Pistons have to have shorter skirts, for the pistons not hitting the counterweights, nor going over the ends of the cylinders.
You have to check that (at least in V-8 engines) the clearance between the camshaft and the rods is enough, like this:
I know you can get aftermarket blocks with raised camshafts, in that case you'll need longer timing chains and shorter pushrods.
The pan rails need to have enough clearance. There are also aftermarket blocks with wider pan rails and extra crank-clearance scallops.
You'll normally increase piston speed. This means that sometimes you have to turn down the redline.
Please, take in account that all this I have seen done, but I've never done it:
I haven't touched my Pontiac Goat. I've rebuilt it three times, but I intend to have an "antique and classic" license plate some day. I've only adapted it to natural gas, that's it. Even the radio is original... and the brakes still have drums. Do
not brake suddenly in front of me when raining, because my right knee hurts.
. Not sure how LONG it lasted though . . . 
